As soon as I heard Iris van Herpen's designs would be featured at the Denver Art Museum, I was sold. Known for her innovative and avant-garde approach to fashion, van Herpen seamlessly blends technology and craftsmanship, creating pieces that transcend the boundaries of traditional design. Her work is not just clothing; it’s wearable art that pushes the limits of material and form. I never thought I would have the privilege of seeing her cutting-edge designs in person, let alone in Denver.
Her designs are currently featured in Biophilia: Nature Reimagined at the Denver Art Museum until August 11th. The exhibit features over 80 pieces, ranging from architectural models and photographs to objects, fashion, digital installations, and immersive art experiences, all showcasing the powerful impact of nature. According to the Denver Art Museum, “Biophilia is a term popularized by American biologist and author Edward O. Wilson to describe his theory that, as humans have evolved as a species, they have been intricately intertwined with the natural world. (“Biophilia”).
Biophilia is centered around three themes, each reflecting an aspect of nature that significantly affects our well-being: Natural Analogs: Form and Pattern, Natural Systems: Processes and Phenomena, and Topophilia: People and Place.
Two pieces from Van Herpen's collection are highlighted in the exhibit's section on Natural Systems: Processes and Phenomena: a dress from her Autumn/Winter 2018 Syntopia Collection and the Diatom Gown from her Spring/Summer 2020 Sensory Seas Collection.
Iris van Herpen’s collection, Syntopia, delves into the emerging realms of synthetic biology, examining the intricate relationships between organic and inorganic matter. It recognizes the ongoing scientific convergence of biology and technology, highlighting both the fragility and power of this union.
Through Syntopia, Iris van Herpen channels her fascination with movement, stemming from her experience as a dancer. Inspired by the delicate intricacies of bird flight and the work of Studio Drift and scientist Etienne Jules Marey, Van Herpen employed chronophotography to dissect and reinterpret fabric draping. “By slowing down time into split seconds I started breaking down the usual draping of fabric, to then layer the milli-seconds all slightly shifted, like the layering of a bird's feather” (van Herpen, "Syntopia") (Iris van Herpen).
Iris van Herpen’s Diatom Gown draws inspiration from the intricate cellular patterns of diatoms, a type of microalgae vital for oxygen production in aquatic environments. The design features deep blues and greens printed on sheer silk organza, layered to create a textured, fibrous appearance. This dress captures the rhythmic motion and the true essence of underwater life.
The Sensory Seas collection by Iris van Herpen features 21 silhouettes that evoke the fluidity of liquids. Dresses extend into elegant trains with pigments blending in blues and lilacs, resembling marble. Translucent, colorful mesh mimics deep-sea forms, while Shelee Carruthers’ paintings of greens, blues, and yellows are set against the vibrant reds of coral reefs, creating a stunning contrast (van Herpen, "Sensory Seas") (Iris van Herpen).
“Fashion is an instrument for change, to shift us emotionally. Through biomimicry, I look at the forces behind the forms in nature—these patterns and natural cycles are my guide to explore new forms of femininity for a more conscious and sustainable fashion for the future.”
—Iris van Herpen
Experiencing Iris van Herpen's designs first-hand at the Denver Art Museum was truly surreal. Her craftsmanship, blending cutting-edge technology with ethereal beauty, never fails to transcend traditional fashion boundaries. Getting to see the intricate details and innovative techniques up close was incredibly inspiring, and I am immensely grateful for the opportunity. This exhibition has not only deepened my appreciation for van Herpen's work but also highlighted Denver's apparent growing commitment to trying to embrace high fashion.
I sincerely hope the Denver Art Museum continues to host such groundbreaking exhibitions, expanding the city’s knowledge of high fashion, and bringing more and more haute couture to Denver.
XO,
𝒇𝒂𝒔𝒉𝒊𝒐𝒏 𝒇𝒊𝒍𝒍𝒆
"Biophilia." Denver Art Museum, www.denverartmuseum.org/en/exhibitions/biophilia. Accessed 14 June 2024.
"Denver Art Museum Presents Biophilia: Nature Reimagined in May 2024." Denver Art Museum, 22 Aug. 2023, www.denverartmuseum.org/en/press/release/denver-art-museum-presents-biophilia-nature-reimagined-may-2024.
"Biophilia Exhibition Guide Gallery 4." Denver Art Museum, www.denverartmuseum.org/en/biophilia-exhibition-guide-gallery-4. Accessed 14 June 2024.
"Biophilia Exhibition Guide Gallery 7." Denver Art Museum, www.denverartmuseum.org/en/biophilia-exhibition-guide-gallery-7. Accessed 14 June 2024.
Van Herpen, Iris. "Sensory Seas." Iris van Herpen, https://www.irisvanherpen.com/collections/hypnosis. Accessed 14 June 2024.
Iris van Herpen. "Syntopia." Iris van Herpen, https://www.irisvanherpen.com/collections/syntopia. Accessed June 14, 2024.